Kitchen conversations: The Coven of Wiches

1. What inspired you to start an entirely plant-based cafe?

As a vegan who loves a huge indulgent sandwich or three, I’d been searching for something delicious in London for a long time but with no success. The sandwich scene in the UK is still in its infancy really, with most people still thinking of meal deals and packed lunches. The choices for vegans were always limited to ‘Hummus and Roast Veg’ or ‘Tofu Scramble and Cress’ as a concession on an omni menu, so I figured if no one else is able to do it the way we want it, well then I’ll do it and better than anyone else. 

2. What’s your favourite ingredient in the kitchen?

Probably garlic or maybe even chilli. I think every single dish developed for The Coven leans heavily into umami and heat, the unctuousness from the depth of flavour and the existential wake up of the fire reminds you that food is meant to be an experience and not just a functional necessity. 

3. What’s your best kitchen hack or tip?

Listen to your gut. Is it delicious? Do you want to take another bite? Are you compelled to do so? Will your whole world halt but for one more simpering morsel of what’s in front of you? If no, then it probably needs a little salt. 

4. How do you attract meat-eaters to the cafe?

We don’t really. I mean, I strive to make universally delicious food that transcends bias and prejudice, but we have “666% VEGAN ‘WICHCRAFT” on the front of the building, so it’s not really a welcome beacon for the meat fanatics. However, our amazing Coven often bring one or two self-professed “meat eaters” following reluctantly behind them, and they usually walk away pleasantly surprised. I’m not sure what the conversion rate is but we’ve had a fair few repeat omni customers back for our ‘Wiches. Tasty food is just tasty food. 

5. What’s your most popular dish?

Has to be The Reuben, probably because it’s the only sandwich we keep on the menu while the others rotate as specials. It’s just a classic and stokes up a lot of feelings in people for sure. We have ex-meat lovers, who used to love a Reuben back in the day, who come through to see if we can make them happy again. We get folk that made the pilgrimage to “Katz’s Deli” who want to see how our version stacks up to theirs. And mostly folks who never even heard of a Reuben, who look at the menu pictures on my phone and instantly light up when I swipe to The Reuben. Crowd pleaser, always. 

6. How have you noticed the cultural attitudes towards meat free change over the last few years?

Well, we had a little moment a few years ago, where there was wide adoption from supermarkets and various household brands, who ran vegan versions of well-loved staples and pushed hard into their plant-based ranges. That felt like we were getting somewhere. Maybe it’s the London bubble even but I know we ate good for a while.   

In recent years that seems to have died down somewhat, the red top rag narrative dipped hard into scaremongering and bare faced disinformation which could’ve swayed the public’s opinion on a cruelty free existence. It’s all marketing at the end of the day and the lobbyists will generally outmanoeuvre a well-meaning niche group, which is why we hold fast and double down. More sandwiches and more compassion, more education and more hugs – love always wins in the end. 

7. What do you think the next trend will be in the plant-based space?

I’ve been seeing lot more raw and low intervention recipes cropping up online. I think current generations are increasingly tuned into health and wellness, and fitness is big business. 

8. What’s the one plant-based dish you think everyone should be able to cook?

Rice!

9. What’s your favourite thing to cook when you’re not at work? 

I find absolutely no shame in telling you that it’s (canned) baked beans. Of course I’ll add flavour and depth to them, but any brand will do, the cheaper the better probably. I like mine stewed down over time with chipotle, adobo, chilli flakes, maybe some fragrant oil but lots of time and heat. I call them Gloopy Beans, to be served piping hot on a day off. 

10. Which restaurant do you love for a veggie meal?

I’m always drawn back to Itadaki Zen in Kings Cross. It’s a family run vegan Japanese restaurant that’s been going for a long time now and I believe it’s currently under management from the son of the owners who had it when we first started going. Always fresh and it’s such a lovely, relaxed environment, I’d say they’re the OG outliers of the London vegan scene, they could get some more love for sure. 

11. What advice would you give to people wanting to try meat free?

Try it, you might like it! 

The Coven of Wiches is at 14D Market Row, London SW9 8LD. Find out more via its Facebook and Instagram pages.