Kitchen conversations: Morso

1. What inspired you to start an entirely plant-based bakery?

I’ve worked as a chef my whole career but my interest in pastries really started to grow when I became vegan – I wanted to prove that you don’t need animal products to make stunning, indulgent pastries. I also love the precision and patience that this kind of cooking requires. 

2. What’s your favourite ingredient in the kitchen?

Not to give a stereotypical vegan answer but it has to be tofu. I’m a firm believer that anyone who says they don’t like tofu just hasn’t had it done well – it is so incredibly versatile and can take on so much flavour. 

3. What’s your best kitchen hack or tip?

When roasting vegetables, periodically open the door to let out the steam – it helps them get nice and crisp. Before we opened the bakery we had a cookery school. We taught all different types of cooking and cuisines and, of all the knowledge we shared, this was the one thing that everyone remembered! 

4. How do you attract meat-eaters to the bakery?

We don’t emphasise that we are fully plant-based – we just want to create things that look and taste amazing, to everyone. Let the pastries do the work – any preconceived ideas people may have about ‘vegan food’ tend to dissipate once they’ve tasted it for themselves. 

5. What’s your most popular dish?

Probably our savoury Danish that we flavour with gochujang (Korean red pepper paste), confit garlic and maple – it’s the perfect balance between savoury, sweet and spicy. It was only meant to be a special but immediately become a daily staple! 

6. How have you noticed cultural attitudes towards meat free change over the last few years?

There was definitely a ‘boom’ around 2016-2019 with supermarkets and big chains launching so many products and, although that has since slowed, it is definitely much more understood and accepted now than it was before. So often menus featured a ‘token vegan option’ and it felt like an afterthought, or like some kind of sacrifice, but there are now so many amazing places proving that good food is just good food. 

7. What do you think the next trend will be in the plant-based space?

There has been such a focus on protein for the last few years but I think attention will shift more to fibre and good gut health – fermented foods, whole foods, putting vegetables at the front and centre of dishes. 

8. What’s the one plant-based dish you think everyone should be able to cook?

Something that lends to self to being ‘naturally’ meat free like a dhal or a curry – it ticks all the boxes of being versatile, healthy, satisfying and relatively easy. 

9. What’s your favourite thing to cook when you’re not at work?

Anything Asian-inspired – noodles, kimchi-fried rice, ramen – the spice and umami is a nice contrast to all the sugar at work! 

10. Which restaurant do you love for a veggie meal?

There are so many amazing restaurants in London and, whenever I’m there, I try to get to Tofu Vegan. I love the authenticity as well as the sense of nostalgia it brings – it reminds me of the Chinese restaurants I used to go to as a kid. And every time I go it is always so busy which is so great to see. 

11. What advice would you give to people wanting to try meat free?

Enjoy it! I always tell people that going vegan made me fall in love with cooking again – after nearly 20 years of cheffing. You approach things differently, discover new techniques and exciting ingredients. Don’t be daunted or intimidated, have fun with it!  

Morso is along Saville Row in Bath. Find out more via its Facebook and Instagram pages.